Ocean Rhythms and Local Swells – Folly Field Notes
By Capt. Weatherly
One of my earliest surfing memories is floating in the water with my two best friends, one girl’s dad, and all his surfer friends. We were around 12 years old and even then I knew surfing was powerful – a connection to both the ocean and your friends. Over the years Mr. Tommy found old boards and fixed them up for us to use an uncle in FL sent me my very first board, just for me.
Our crew spent most non-school days (and sometimes sunrises before school – still not sorry for wearing a bikini under the uniform, Bishop England!) sitting at 6E alternating between throwing frisbee, eating Publix subs, and surfing.
Surfing is more than just riding waves. There’s a sense of calm and intense grounding when in the water. Sure, there’s other people around, but at its essence it’s just you and the ocean. Even on a calm day the ocean demands respect.
Throughout history, humans have gravitated toward water—for transportation, food, fresh drinking water, and an allure that’s hard to explain. But why are we pulled toward the water? The human body is about 60% water. The rhythm of the ocean can sync with our own internal rhythms—slowing heart rate, lowering cortisol levels, and triggering the parasympathetic nervous system, which helps us relax. Numerous studies show that being near water (a concept often called “blue space”) can ease anxiety, improve mood, and even boost creativity. The book Blue Mind by Dr. Wallace J. Nichols is a great read if you want to dive deeper.
It makes sense that we’d want to glide across the surface. Waves break as they enter shallow water due to a process called wave shoaling: friction with the ocean floor slows down the bottom of the wave and causing the upper part to peak and eventually topple forwards. On average waves begin to break when the water depth is about 1.3 times the wave height.
Folly Beach faces SSE, which means is perfectly angled to catch swells from the Atlantic (especially those generated by storms far offshore!). It has a gradual, sandy slope that is ideal for consistent, rideable waves. The longshore current here typically flows from North to South, helping shape the coastline (geological process needs its own feature!). This setup makes Folly one of the more reliable surf spots on the South Carolina coast.
Folly Beach is blessed with a wonderful surfing culture, from surf schools to competitions and all the individuals who paddle out every day. I’m more likely to be found on the beach taking photos these days, but when I do get in the water my favorite board is Mr. Tommy’s 8’ Ricky Carroll. He had made 15 years ago when his back didn’t want to short board anymore. What a joy to always have my friends along for the ride.
